CRTF1240AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .

Pulled the back off and it was right there. Hardest part was to get the belt all the way around the drive wheel on the washer tub. Found out that it wasn't just the belt. It is the shock absorbers that probably broke the belt, even though the belt was probably well over 15 years old. The bouncing and banging because of the absorbers being bad probably had something to do with the belt eventually breaking. Now, we need to replace the shock absorbers.A big thing to remember about the belt install....clean the drive wheel real good!!!

Turned circuit Off at breaker panel Extracted metal seal ring from tumbler seal,loosened/extracted 2 screws holding assembly,pulled 2 wires,Reversed sequence with New lock assembly,made sure tumbler seal was seated securely,turned breaker on,tested,Complete!

With the help of PartSelect's diagnosting tool it was easy to find the right part. The part arrived very fast and the installation was "child's play" by following PartSelect's video. I must have saved > $100. Thank You very much. -Anna-

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

There were only two screws that held the door strike/catch in place. I had to fish out the broken plastic piece with a pair of hemostats. The only difficult part about changing the new piece was that I had to find someone with the correct screwdriver to use since it was not a standara screwdriver. Luckily I live next door to a mechanic and borrowed his. The two screws came off easilty and I was able to replace it in 2 minutes. I was thrilled that the part that I ordered arrived the next day.

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

It was very easy. I simply unscrewed the 2 screws set the new latch into place and replaced the screws.

(This is reply #2 of 2)
After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws.
After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. Theyt froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole.
Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...

First I pulled the front panel on the washer off, than I unplugged the wires to the pump, took the two screws out that hold the pump, took the two hose clamps off and took it out. To replace I did the reverse.

took off 2 screws and 2 hose clamps put in new part. Put srews and clamp back on less than ten minutes. total cost with shipping $62.00. repair person wanted $265.00.

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

Removed and replaced two screws.