MSD2433HEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

first i remove the two screws like the guy said on your web site. then i pulled the cover off with a upward motion revealing three more screws witch i removed. I then removed the dispencer. unpluged the wires and removed the switch and pad and replaced with new parts.I reinstalled the wires then the unit, installed the screws and cover.Checked for proper operation.Then enjoyed that cold beer! Thanks to your wed site and repair info. I saved at least 100 buck to the repair man. Thanks Partselect.com

Easy to diagnose problem because there was water to the water dispenser but none to the newly installed icemaker. Originally did attempt to clean the solenoid but found the plunger assembly damaged.

New part arrived sooner than I thought it would. Takes about as much time to remove the lower vent cover as to replace the valve. Remove the electrical plug from the wall, valve off the main water supply, remove lower vent cover, disconnect the supply hose from refrigerator valve assembly, remove one hex head mounting screw and you have both water valves in your hands. Identify the valve the supplies water to the filter and the one that supplies water to the icemaker/water dispenser. Then confirm which plastic water supply line goes to the water dispenser and which goes to the icemaker. Hose diameters are different but it is good to know. Disconnect the plastic water supply lines from both the ice dispenser and the icemaker portions of the valve. Replacement solenoid valve does not have thread on type compression fittings. Snip about an inch off of each hose and then press into the appropriate valve orifice.

Making sure the plastic supply lines do not get crimped, remount the valve assembly, reattach the supply hose, valve on the water and check for leaks. No leaks, reinstall dust cover and plug the refrigerator back in.

Move the unit back in place and then take a long deserved beer out and have a celebratory toast for a job well done.

Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52.
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

I first removed the tray at the bottom of the Ice/water compartment, 2nd, removed the 2 star headed screws that are visible and 1 star screw near the water hose. removed front pannel. 3rd removed 4 star screws holding ice/water assembly, let this hang down and was able to reach in and removed the round broken shut door. replaced with new door, Difficult to get new door in but I was lucky and got both side wings in the proper slots. Did everything from above in reverse. New Ice doot works great. I just wish you had sent some type of instructions! Very happy with your company. Other web sites wanted me to buy a complete kit just to get the door assembly. you saved me $30. Thanks

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.

Removed the ice bucket from the freezer. Removed the single screw on the left side with a nut driver, then lift and pull the tray toward you...there is a wiring harness in back of the tray that I had to unplug...easy, pinch the sides of the plastic connector and it disconnects..and the tray came out of the refrigerator...and the cussing started. Since the threaded yoke was stripped it could not be unscrewed from the motor shaft...I took my trusty Dremel Tool and cut the shaft off so the yoke could be separated from the motor shaft and the motor could be removed from the plastic housing. From here on it was a piece of cake...install the new motor and screw the new yoke onto the motor shaft... I think it has a left handed thread, like the old propane bottles used to have..slide the tray back in, reconnect the wiring harness (it only plugs in one way), make sure the tray is sitting on the 4 side supports, put the single screw on the left side and you are done....put the ice bucket back in and flip the bail down and you should be back on business....!!

First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.

Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.

Unplugged fridge.

Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)

Then found and tested defrost heater.
Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.

In refrigerator compartment:
1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)

2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.

3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.

4) Put everything back together.

Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.

Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.

Confirmed the condenser fan was the problem when I noted it was not running when the compressor was on. Removed 3 mounting screws, unpluggede the fan. Removed and replaced the mounted flange(3 screws) and remounted. Plugged in fan and it started running.

Thanks for the diagrams and quick delivery. This is the second repair on appliances I have made with your parts and probably saved $300-400 in service calls.

First I removed the spill tray, and removed the two screws on the bottom of the dispenser. I was then able to remove the front of the dispenser, which revealed 3 more screws. After removing those screws, the entire assembly lifts out. I removed the old pad, put the replacement pad on, replaced all the screws and the tray, and was done! It took about 10 minutes, start to finish. I saved at least $75 on the repair by doing it myself, and the part only took 3 days to arrive. Best of all, the water and ice dispenser works like new! Thanks, PartSelect!

Chronically faulty electronic board in upper right rear of refrigerator compartment - in Maytag and Jenn-Air. Unplug unit. Remove freezer food to ice chest. Remove baskets and shelves, ice hopper and rear lower panel to expose evaporater fins. Defrost with hair dryer and allow all moisture to dry. Then in refrigerator, remove top shelf food. Carefully remove the upper assembly cover by working the plastic down and slide forward to unhook from rear slide attachments - one on each side. This is the hard part of repair.

Then remove screws from rear wall and just behind the lamps to release the whole control assembly. In the rear right corner is the bad board. Unplug and replace with new board. Reassemble the fridge and freezer. Replug unit.

First unplug AC power from the back of the refrigerator and I then removed entire fountain bracket assy that hold by 3 screws. Pull toward with some angle to able to access to a plug of wires and then disconnect it. Pull fountain assy downward. Set it on work place, remove all screws and transfer wires, switch, ice dispenser controller unit,solenoid, spring, flapper...and then install them to a new fountain bracket. Please note that this problem is 100% relating to mechanism. To test this work: Hold Fountain bracket assy vertically, press a flapper,position "open" and make sure return spring is working properly (enough pressure) . Now, install this unit back to my refrigerator. During installing screws, check flapper that can shut tightly enough and secure all screws, check a flapper again. I got it right for the third time because I was not aware of some parts alignment.

Step 1 :I had to remove the ice drip tray just pull it out.
Step 2 remove the 4 or 5 screws holidung in the control module (push button display pad)
step 3: pull the plug from the diaplay panel
Step 4: remove broken door from slot and slide new one in. Be carfull not to let the brass plug fall out of it does it just slides back in.
Reverse all steps your done about 20- minutes..I am a building engineer by trade. I think the average person 30 to 60 minutes..