FLSC238DB1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

The part was easy to find on the site, instructions were right on and it only took 25 minutes to accomplish with just a screw driver and a pair of pliers.

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

Not too bad, remove the water and ice bezel (3 philips screws) then remove the dispenser unit another 3-4 philips screws. Remove water line from dispenser unit (remember this as the water tube re-insertion is the complicated part) I did not remove anything other then components listed above. Seals and inner door stay intact. Replaceing the actuator and arm was easy. two small philips will free the actuator and arm. Disconnect the two wire harness (black and red) NOTE- there are two sets of black and red wire harnesses that plug in next to each other. One is for the ice dispenser and the other for the water. putting it back together is as easy as taking it apart. However the water line has no play, no slack at all so when reinserting it, the space between the dispenser unit and the door itself is limited. Put the tip of the hose down into the hole you removed it from, hold the dispenser still and use a pair of long needle nose pliers to push (feed) the hose down into the hole. Make sure it comes out the other side by about 1/4 inch to insure it is in and stable. reinstall the unit and bezel. Most of my time was spent feeding the short water tube back in place. You will see just how much room there is between the dispenser and the door before you pull the water tube from the unit. In this case you can judge if it will be too complicated for you before you go any further.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

My son and I did it together. I was able to copy and paste the parts diagram on your website and we were able to go step by step following that diagram.We first shut the power to the refrigerator.We then removed the tray and the pad with buttons on the exterior of the fridge. We then unsnapped the electrical plug and were able to tilt the casing that holds the actuator. We removed the old one, and snapped the new one into place.We plugged it in and then proceeded to replace everything. Voila....we now have water again, all for the price of the part...Great!!!

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

It was simple. I loosened the two screws holding the ice maker unit. Then disconnected the wire harness. Plug in the new ice maker and tighten down the two screws. Held reset button for 15 sec. Done! took ten min. I had a full try of ice the next day!

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

I had to remove the face cover to gain access to the ribbon harness, also had to remove the push pads The ribbon is a delicate item so care had to be taken not to bend the ends. The ribbon can fit either side so getting it in place to make contact was kind of tricky. After the ribbon was in, it just a matter of putting things back together. Dispenser is fixed at a minimum cost, ribbon was shipped within 2 days which was great. Thanks to Part Select for easy to find on the net, had a complete diagram of the refrigerator ice/water dispenser so finding the parts needed was simple. Doug

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.