OEMM1-DU20JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.

Removed old gasket and simply replaced it with the new one. Very easy.

First I replaced the door gasket as every one else. This cut drips about 30%. I then discoverd that the Rinse Aid circular dispenser cap was opened about half way. I turned the cap tightly clockwise to close and cut drips to 90% total. I czn live with the other 10%,

Remove the motor and impeller housing assembly from the unit by disconnecting the motor wiring plug, green ground wire, removing the drain and transfer hose, wash arm assembly and three screws for the filter assembly. A plastic locking ring secures the housing assembly into the unit and is removed by rotating aft about an eighth turn. The impeller is removed from the motor shaft by unscrewing the left hand threads on the fan that attaches to the end of the impeller. The impeller has longitudinal splines that engage the motor shaft, so it has to be removed by pulling straight off of the motor shaft. My impeller was stuck on the motor shaft, so I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and sliced through the impeller to loosen it. Installed a new motor shaft oring, and then slid the new integrated seal/impeller onto the motor shaft and secured with the fan (remember left hand threads). Reassembled unit and no leaks...

The dishwasher was running perfectly, but over time it leaked more and more. We were ready to throw it out, when I searched the internet and saw stories about a tiny gasket commonly failing. I couldn't believe that could be the trouble, but ordered the $3.75 part. Unscrewed the door, slipped out the old gasket and slipped on the new one. Screwed the door back. And the result? THE LEAK IS FIXED! Unbelievable. The old gasket had gotten stiff, probably exposure to soap, and it wasn't sealing properly. That $3.75 part saved us hundreds and hundreds of dollars and will give us extra years of use from our dishwasher.

After pulling dishwasher out both springs easily installed using plastic connectors on the bottom left and right sides. Pliars were used to stretch the springs. It took fifteen minutes at most.

removed old deteriorated gasket - just pulled out
cleaned soap particles from door seal area
pressd in new gasket - note orientation
done.

still leaks - will investigate further

pulled out the old gasket, cleaned the area before pressing in the new gasket with my fingers ,I made sure to put it in the same way as the old one. You have no idea how happy I am that this solved the problem.

I removed the original gasket, wiped down the area, and installed the new gasket the same way the old one was installed. It was very easy.

My husband thinks I'm the smartest wife ever! He's telling all his friends how I got online to research the problem (thanks to your readers and DIY comments!), diagnosed it, ordered the parts and - voila - clean dishes once again! It's like everyone said, remove inside of the door by removing 7 torx screws, dismantle wiring -remember to note what connects to what - pop out old parts, easily insert new ones (that arrived in record time!), reconnect wiring, replace door and you're done. Replacing the reservoir o-ring also stopped the leaking problem that preceded the door issue. Thanks PartSelect!

I removed the inside door cover, unpluged the accuator, removed the two screws holding the dispenser latch in place. Replaced both the latch and rubber groumet. returned the door to normal operation and verified no leaks was present.

Removed door interior, confirmed with tester that power was reaching door cut-off switch, but not power on other side of switch when engaged. Noticed that little switch button frozen in shut position, assumed switch had burned out. Installer new door cut-off switch with new (dual) switch units in place, plugged in unit and it ran perfectly.

Followed the instruction video provided by this site ! 15 minute repair?..Super Simple!!! I Love this company!!! Saved me a bunc of money!!

I went to take the bottom front panel off and ended up dropping the screw down behind the baseboard and then found that I did not need to take the panel off. The broken end of the float was not obstructing and I was able to just drop the new float in place. I spent more time looking for a replacement screw than any thing else. Ran it and it works fine.

no problems, very easy