OEMM1-DU20JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Philip C from Cloquet, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP902894, WP99001553
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Occasional water leakage at bottom of door
I followed instructions of others that were posted. Door seal was simply removing old seal, cleaning track and pushing new seal in,making sure it was even all around. Removing the door cover to get at the Dispenser grommet was simply removing all 7 hex nut screws. Had to go out and buy the proper hex nut screwdriver . I did not remove the wiring, just turned cover over to remove the two nuts holding the dispenser. The nut on the left was a little hard to get off, had to kind of force the socket onto the nut. Otherwise all went well and simply removed the old grommet and installed new one. Finding the right tools was the part that took the longest. I had hard water before putting in a water softener so that was probably hard on the seals plus the machine was an older model. No problems now and saved having someone come in and do a repair.
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- Customer:
- serafino from oakland, MI
- Parts Used:
- 99002254
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dishwasher would not turn on
Once I removed the inside panel from the door replacing the switch was pretty simple. completed the job in less than twenty minutes.
This was the third appliance I have repaired with the help of Parts Select in the last three months.
This was the third appliance I have repaired with the help of Parts Select in the last three months.
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- Customer:
- Ted from portland, OR
- Parts Used:
- W10131752
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Leaking water at bottom left of dishwasher door
Initially thought this issue was the dishwasher door gasket, but after reading post on this site about door latch grommet, removed 7 "hex screws" pulled inside of dishwasher door away and traced water from leak back to soap dispenser latch/grommet area so instead of ordering door gasket ordered door latch and grommet. Replaced grommet only (in addition to 7 "hex screws" had to remove 2 additional screws to get to it) which took some maneuvering. Re-aligned grommet and latch, inserted and tightened all screws that had been removed. Works great - no more water leaking!
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- Customer:
- David from Philadelphia, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP912653
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dishwasher door was slamming down, heavy to close
Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.
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- Customer:
- Mary from Narrowsburg, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP99001553
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Water leak bottom right side if door mid cycle
Removed 7 Torx Screws ... removed inner door panel ... snapped off the selinoid after noting the exact original position ... removed the Latch assembly 2 hex head screws ... removed the old Grommet which was crumbling apart ... stretched the new grommet in place. Then did the steps in reverse to complete a successful repair.
Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!
Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!
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- Customer:
- Joel from Point Roberts, WA
- Parts Used:
- Y912904
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lower wash arm would not spin freely
The problem is a worn seal ring. That ring is inside the lower spray arm's spray nozzle support assembly. The wash arm spins on that assembly.
I unscrewed the lower spray nozzle popup, from the wash arm support. That part, from which the extending spray nozzle rotator pops out, simply unscrews, by hand, from the wash arm support. Then I could lift off the wash arm itself to get it out of the way for the next step.
With the wash arm removed, I could then gently pry off the flat filter cover which was underneath the wash arm (the filter cover is simply clipped on. Use a screwdriver).
Now, reaching inside where the that popup spray nozzle was screwed on, you can see and/or feel a tall skinny plastic piece in the center of it, which actually screws that wash arm support onto, well, the rest of the dishwasher.
With that "screw" removed by hand, I removed the wash arm support.
Inside that wash arm support the old ring seal can be removed and the new one inserted.
Simply reverse the process to re-assemble.
Note that it's hard to determine where, exactly, to put that ring seal, inside the wash arm support. But it seemed to me it didn't really matter as long as it was just in there.
I unscrewed the lower spray nozzle popup, from the wash arm support. That part, from which the extending spray nozzle rotator pops out, simply unscrews, by hand, from the wash arm support. Then I could lift off the wash arm itself to get it out of the way for the next step.
With the wash arm removed, I could then gently pry off the flat filter cover which was underneath the wash arm (the filter cover is simply clipped on. Use a screwdriver).
Now, reaching inside where the that popup spray nozzle was screwed on, you can see and/or feel a tall skinny plastic piece in the center of it, which actually screws that wash arm support onto, well, the rest of the dishwasher.
With that "screw" removed by hand, I removed the wash arm support.
Inside that wash arm support the old ring seal can be removed and the new one inserted.
Simply reverse the process to re-assemble.
Note that it's hard to determine where, exactly, to put that ring seal, inside the wash arm support. But it seemed to me it didn't really matter as long as it was just in there.
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- Customer:
- James from West Union, OH
- Parts Used:
- 903096
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dishwater cold
I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.
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- Customer:
- RICK from MORGANTON, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP99001553, WP99001288
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Door Leak due to poor design
I removed the screws holding on the interior door panel. This exposed the soap dispenser latch mechanism. After removing the two retaining screws I transferred the original parts to the new retainer and replaced the grommet prior to reinstallation of the mechanism and interior door panel. A savings of probably $100.00 or more for a service call and parts. Should last a few more years.
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- Customer:
- Marguerite from Palm Bay, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP99002947
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
wheel broke on rack adjuster assembly on top rack
Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.
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- Customer:
- Paul from Gibsonia, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP99002003, 99001290, WP902894, WP99001553
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dishwaser Leaked onto the floor
The repair was very easy. The door gasket was a little short, but I gently streched it to the proper length. I replaced the other parts as a precaution as some others said they were really the source of the original leak. It went very smoothy and NO MORE LEAKS.
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- Customer:
- Brad from York, ME
- Parts Used:
- WP902899
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dispenser door would not open
Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.
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- Customer:
- jerry from wilton, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP902894
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Door leaked from lower right corner
First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.
Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.
Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.
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- Customer:
- Clifford from Palm Harbor, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP99002560
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dishwasher would not fill with water
Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.
The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.
Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.
The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.
Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.
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- Customer:
- Rick from Laingsburg, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP99002560
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No water would enter in dishwasher
Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops
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- Customer:
- Randall from Tulsa, OK
- Parts Used:
- 99002254
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Unit would only stay on if one was pushing the door
First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.
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