99538 ((1988)) Kenmore Range - Instructions

two Phillips head screws hold the oven unit in. It culls out and the wires just disconnect. Reinstall in reverse and test.. The burner socket I cut the wires from the old socket and splice the new pigtails onto the existing wires and install the socket. The instructions in the package are good for people that aren't used to doing repairs.

After my husband replace it we noticed that our knob was worn to the point it would not turn on the new switch. I am sure the switch was o.k. so kept the old one and getting a knob to fix the issue.

I used the replacement video from the web site. The replacement went great.

Turned off breaker, pulled stove from wall, took off knob, unscrewed and pull off backing from stove, unscrewed heat control part, unplugged wires, plugged into new part, installed part, replaced stove backing, replaced knob, pushed stove back in place and turned on breaker. It worked fine.

I installed the new switch. No difference. I switched elements with the other 8”. Same thing. I called Part Select and their rep said he doubted the new switch was defective but if it was they would replace it. But first how about trading the new switch with the other 8” switch that is working. I did that and the new switch worked fine on that burner but the old switch that worked before allowed the bad burner to go to red hot. Now I’m at a loss. All I see is a new stove. I don’t know what to do next and am open to any and all suggestions.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

Piece a cake!
Turned off electrical breaker.
Removed original screws from old defective element and slipped in new replacement element.
Perfect fit!

Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.

The repair was easy. I unplugged the stove, removed back panel, pulled knob and removed 2 screws to remove switch. Unplugged old switch, plugged in new one and installed the 2 screws for switch. Had to snap off stem for new switch to fit knob (easily done with pliers with provided notch). Put knob and back panel back on. Total time, maybe 20 minutes.

I disconnected power cord from house current. Removed back panels (2). I then removed round knob on front of range. I then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in place. After doing that, I gently removed the actual switch itself from back of face panel. I then separated the 2 elements of the switch.

I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.

No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.

Turned off power to range. Took back panel off to reveal all controls. Pulled off knob of bad control. Removed 2 screws from the front of the control. Pulled off wiring from back of old control. Took new control reversed procedure. Reinstalled back panel turned power on and tested new control. Total time about 20 minutes

Pulled out element, plugged in new element. About 5 seconds.

No problem Took off old ones and replaced with new.

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

Removed old element, replaced new element. Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem. It was the temperature sensor. But now I have a new bake element, though!