GGF322BBWB Gibson Range - Instructions

Checked voltage supply to oven igniter, had 120 v
to oven igniter, but igniter was not glowing.

I exposed the ignitor through the inside of the oven and then removed the two screws that held it in place. I then cut the wires underneath the stove ans reconnected them to the new part with the wire nuts provided. It was a simple repair.

First I removed the bottom plate of the oven to get a better view. I then removed the burner plate and the burner. Disconnected the igniter and put in new one it was real simple.

cut wires and removed the burner . Removed the ignighter and installed the new with nut driver. slipped the burner back in place and nutted the wires...Wallagh!!! fired right up...

Unplug appliance. Remove the bottom of the oven (2 screws in back of oven bottom), remove burner cover (2 screws in front and nut in center holding burner). Pull out the bottom storage drawer under the oven and unplug both wires from oven Igniter which are located in the back. One wire plugs into the gas valve and the second wire went into a connector that was on the lower left. I removed the screw on the back oven wall that held the burner so I could remove the burner for ease of work. Remove two screws holding the old igniter. The two screws holding the igniter to the side of the burner were stripped and they took a little time to remove but I replaced them with two new screws I had in my misc. screw drawer and had no issue. Cut the top wire and splice it onto the top wire of the new igniter using the porcelain wire nuts provided. Do the same with the bottom wire. Re-assemble and plug back in. Everything worked perfectly.

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

removed the old igniter, installed the new one. 15 minutes, piece o cake!

took the old igniter out and swapped the connectors onto the new one. Kept the connectors close to the connector end to prevent them from being to close to the ovens heat.

First, I read all the instrutions that came with my replacement part from Parts Select thoroughly (twice) then follewed them like an experienced surgeon. I removed the lower drawr after turning off the gas and unplugging the stove and then took out the bottom panels inside the oven to expose the screws holding the ignitor coil. Removed it, then cnnected the new one to the existing wires as they were in the stove and the drawing in the instructions, then replaced everything in the reverse of them coming apart. Plugged it back in, turned the gas back on and now it,ll bake things again. YEAH!! Parts Select!!!

I just sent in a generic description of my problem and a couple of ideas on what it might be. Within 2 days an online repair person answered me back with the solution. I ordered the part and 2 days later I was back in business and baking cookies.

Removed the two screws, took out the old one and replaced the new one. It was very easy and the oven works great now. Thanks.

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

followed posted repair procedure on Parts select site. . . straight forward and simple. . .