PGS920SEF5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced the ignitor and it has worked perfectly the last week - Service repair walked away from the service call stating it was too random - you website state 91% cause, you were correct I wish I had done this 2 years ago

the part fit perfect so 5 min, done, thanks for the right part the frist time, I will be back

Unhooked old one, installed new one. Piece of cake.

Replaced the ignitor in the broiler. Two screws holding the ignitor in place and two to the cover holding the quick connect plug.

My husband replaced it within 15 minutes,was easy. We ordered the part on a Sunday and had it by Tuesday. Very fast.

thank you

removed the old part .I had to join the new part by clipping the clip off and us the ceramic caps which was included with the new part.Everything went well.

removed oven door & broiler draw took out bottom panel in oven removed part from burner tube reinstalled everything piece of cake works great now

removed oven door racks and pan from bottom of oven. removed warming drawer unplugged oven igniter removed 2 hex screws from bracket on igniter. replaced with new one fiched wire down to warming drawer area plugged in. replaced door and warming drawer. works fine now. very ez to do!

new igniter had a plastic wire coupling that did not fit with the soves wires; cut off coupling and connected wires with ceramic wire nuts given, remounted ignitor and fired up the oven.

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM

Replaced it

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy