PGS920SEF5SS General Electric Range - Instructions

When this happens the plunger switch has to be replaced. This is a small plug like piece that has 4 plug in wires.

So you first unplug the range from the wall outlet. Then remove the oven door off the hinges ( see owners manual for removal ) then you take the right side panel off and there you will see the plunger switch. Before removing the old switch make sure you plug the new one in exactly like the old one. I laid the old one next to the new one and plug them in one at a time. Its a little tricky unplugging them . After a few tries I figured it out. You have to use your thumb and finger and press and pull up by where the wire plugs in. Before putting back together you may want to test the new switch. Plug range back in wall outlet push the black piece that sticks out from switch and if the oven light goes out its fixed. Unplug from wall while reassembling side panel and door. I can say this do it yourself saves a lot of money not having a repairman fix it.

First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.

Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove.
Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY

I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.

All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.

I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection did not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.

The repair was extremely easy. Just removed the old burners and dropped in the new ones. No tools needed.

Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.

First, The hinges did not seem like the issue for my problem. The oven door did not sag loosely in the closed position, rather, it would come to a stop before being fully closed, so that the oven light would stay on and the oven computer would complain that the door was open. I would have to force the door closed and wedge it to keep it closed. I finally ordered the hinges and compared them to the existing hinges and could not see any difference.

I opened the oven door part way, released the hinge catches, and then lifted the oven door off of the oven. Then I layed it down front side down, took pictures of the assembly, then removed the bottom plates and hinge attachement screws. I replaced the hinges, reinstalled the plate and then the door assembly, and it started opening and closing correctly.

remove old burner, put new in place

Decided to replace both hinges. Using other instructions, lift the door with hinges off and away from the oven frame and place front side down on a table. Take a picture of the bottom edge to help you remember where all the brackets and bits go. Remove the screws near each hinge and all along the bottom. On one side lift up the inner door panel and pull out the old hinge from the bottom, replacing it with the new hinge. Repeat on the other side. Return all screws to their original holes, bottom edge first and then for each hinge. Replace door back to oven frame using reverse procedure.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

took burner off installed new one thank you for fast shipping

It only required placing the new burner in the proper location.

I got really great customer service on finally getting the right part. It came really fast it fit perfect but the cap is a high gloss black instead of a flat black. I will need to call customer service again to see if they can the correct color this time.
Otherwise everything was great!

Removed old valve and replaced it with new and knob as well.

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

Remove interior bottom of oven, remove igniter screws, unplug igniter. reinstall igniter.