DBB3300GA1WW Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mary from Oak Point, TX
- Parts Used:
- WE05X20431
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
blub burned out.
I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great
It worked great
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dryer not heating up
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!
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- Customer:
- Colin C. from GENEVA, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE05X20431
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
The light bulb in the dryer burned out
The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.
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- Customer:
- Ricard from Pittsfield, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE25X217
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
I changed a dryer for natural to Lp gas
I received the part in record time.(2 days) I had a little trouble getting the case off of the dryer, but the part was real easy to install. I have changed these before with another company and their instructins were not good at all. Your instruction were relly easy to understand, step by step.
Thanks
Thanks
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- Customer:
- blanche from Delray Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE1M1011
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
latch on door broken, dryer could not function
I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you
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- Customer:
- Karen from Warwick, NY
- Parts Used:
- WE01X20419
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
handle broken on dryer
Removed the broken handle from the dryer and popped on the new one.
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- Customer:
- Sandra from Virginia Beach, VA
- Parts Used:
- WE1M654
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Timer knob was cracked
Simply removed the cracked timer knob and replaced with the new one. The replacement time was received in less than 24 hours after I made the order! Outstanding customer service!
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- Customer:
- RUSSELL from NORWALK, CT
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The Old Knob Broke.
I replaced the old knob with a new one.
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- Customer:
- Kay from Ontario, CA
- Parts Used:
- WE18X25100
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
A damaged filter had been put into the dryer
The part was delivered in record time. That was the best part. And it fit perfectly and was the correct color. The other filter was grey and the dryer is white. Thanks for being so efficient.
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- Customer:
- Frank from Jacksonville, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE18X25100
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old lint filter was cracked from use
Ordered new lint filter, received it in 2 days, removed old filter, snapped in new filter, patted myself on the back .
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- Customer:
- lee from port charlotte, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Plastic stem that the knob attaches to, broke off
unscrewed the back plate off of the dryer. Disconnected the the wires off of the switch. Remember to to unplug your dryer from the wall first!!!. Reconnect the wires to the new switch and twist back into place. Be careful not to bend the metal tabs. Put the back plate back on and plug in. Put on new knob and the wife was smiling. Took about 8 minutes to repair.
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Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.
The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.
I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).
The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.
I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).
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- Customer:
- Jim from Foothill Ranch, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Gas Dryer would heat for one heating cycle but no gas afterward. Ignitor would glow.
Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.
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- Customer:
- William from BREVARD, NC
- Parts Used:
- WE11X29438
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Heat deflecter coated with plastic from drying plastic table cloth.
Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.
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- Customer:
- Carl from Newburgh, IN
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Intermittent starting gave way to no starting
a. researched internet to find how to access rotary starter switch
b. isolated all electrical input at breaker box
c. removed 4 torx screws on top of dryer head
d. lowered dryer head (swivels toward front)
e. pulled electrical connections from back of switch
f. turned and pulled thus releasing rotary switch
g. reversed procedure above
h. reconnected electrical
i. started dryer - it worked first time
j. watched football until wife came home
k. told wife dryer was fixed and what a bear it was to get it done :o)
l. that night accepted my reward for working so hard at fixing the dryer and saving us a bundle. :o)
m. now we are both smiling
b. isolated all electrical input at breaker box
c. removed 4 torx screws on top of dryer head
d. lowered dryer head (swivels toward front)
e. pulled electrical connections from back of switch
f. turned and pulled thus releasing rotary switch
g. reversed procedure above
h. reconnected electrical
i. started dryer - it worked first time
j. watched football until wife came home
k. told wife dryer was fixed and what a bear it was to get it done :o)
l. that night accepted my reward for working so hard at fixing the dryer and saving us a bundle. :o)
m. now we are both smiling
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