WDF520PADM8 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

I checked the manual to determine the code meaning for 7 blinks, it was heating issue. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. When the part came in, I googled the internet for "How to replace a dishwasher heating element". There were several options, I chose one that was a video showing a handyman go through each step. I followed the steps, with no problems, and WA-LA! Felt good (as the wife of the house) to do it myself!

Turned water off. Removed dishwasher from under the counter, replaced hose, reinstalled dishwasher under the counter.

New one snapped right into place.

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

I watched the videos and did the repair , very simple, replaced main motor and dispenser. just have to take your time, turn off water and power and work safely

I located the water inlet valve underneath. After moving the dishwasher out from the cabinet, I tilted it . Then I disconnected the black hose with the pliers . Using the adjustable wrench I unscrewed the water feed to the valve . I then unscrewed the valve from the frame and disconnected the wire plug by unlocking and slipping it away from the valve. To install I did all this in reverse.

Well, it’s very easy to repair. But, what I like if ur Company is, the availability, of the parts.
Thanks you.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

Open the dishwasher door remove the utensil rack. Next remove all the remaining screws around the outside of the door. Close the door. Slightly lift up on the outside cover of the door, watch out for the wiring inside of the dispenser. Take the flat head micro screwdriver remove the two clips inside the dispenser and then the one main. Next remove the door sensor directly above it just to make the door cover to swing off to the side to make everything easy. Lift up the black flat remove the outside screws with a 6 mm socket push the dispenser back inside the dishwasher. Install and reverse directions don't forget to hook back up the wires.

I just snapped the old one off and snapped the new one on..

I watched a quick video and replaced it in less than 5 minutes. Video suggested removing the rack.....but I didn't even need to do that.

Had to repurchase the correct one. I was also sent a used part that I am still waiting for a call tag to send back. I was also given an email address for customer service but low and behold it also didn’t work!!!!

Slid the holder into the protrusions on the dishwasher door.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.