GLD2800T05BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

This is the second time I have order a part from this firm. They have been kind, helpful and sent my order to me immediately. The first part was a wheel for the dish rack in the dish washer. The second part was an end cap for the dish rack slide. I installed the parts within a minute. I am very pleased with their professional service and highly recommend them to anyone with an appliance problem where parts are needed quickly.

Put end cap in dishwasher with movable part toward the back of the dishwasher. The free end of the movable part should be oriented at the top of the end cap. Put the lower half of the end cap into the rail behind the indented metal area so the widest part of the end cap is just opposite the hole where it should snap into place. Push the movable arm towards the back of the dishwasher until it fits under the upper rail. Then move the top half of the end cap into place under the top of the rail.

Replaced lower spray arm

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...

Press endcap in place after ensuring the rack is in track

Very Easy! Lift old arm out and replaced it with the new one.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

Replaced the plastic piece. Simple

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Disconnected water, drain, electrical- remove dishwasher.
Place dishwasher on back removed part- replace with new part-reconnected and reinstalled.

One of the rack slide end caps broke so only one end cap kept the rack from falling out. The video guide worked for me to remove the remaining end cap allowing the rack to come out. I then replaced the middle arm conduit carrier as it no longer had a tight fit. I then replaced the middle spray arm bearing and reinstalled the rack and the rack slide end caps using the video supplied online by this site . Ran dishwasher and verified middle spray arm was turning.

Took the screws out of the inner panel to open it and expose the latch area. Found the door spring stuck to the insulation so we saved it. Used the part's list picture to figure out how to put the latch parts together (wish the picture was better). Reattached the inner panel. The latch works better now than when it was new....which makes us wonder.

After removing the front panels, I removed two screws holding the valve in place. I turned off the water supply and removed the water line, unclipped the hose clamps and took the faulty valve out. I then reversed the above steps and turned the water back on. NO leak. Very easy to do andthe repair took ~20 minutes to complete.