Models > MGRH752BDW

MGRH752BDW Maytag Range

Jump to:

Find Part by Name

Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Diagrams for MGRH752BDW

Viewing 7 of 7

Manuals & Guides for MGRH752BDW

Click to download
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
This is a genuine OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb that is compatible with various types of appliances. It has a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, making it easy to screw and uns...
In Stock
If your gas range is not lighting or coming up to temperature, there may be an issue with the igniter. The igniter is used to create a spark that lights the gas, and if it is glowing but will not ligh...
In Stock
This top burner igniter comes with a mounting bracket.
In Stock
This part includes one range leveling leg, sourced directly from the original manufacturer. The leveling leg is what supports the range and ensures it is sitting level, stable, and at the proper heigh...
In Stock
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode. Please note this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket. Sold individually.
In Stock
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
In Stock
This is a multi-use screw and can be used on a variety of appliances. The measurements of the screw are: 8/18 x 3/8. *Please note: the screw is sold individually. Refer to the manual provided by the m...
In Stock
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
In Stock
$90.79
This is an oven rack for your range. It is a stable surface for your cookware to sit when baking and broiling. It measures to be roughly 23 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is made of durable metal ...
In Stock
$20.83
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
In Stock
$87.39
This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips.
In Stock
This is a multi-use screw mostly used in dryers. It has a diameter of #10, length of one inch, and thread size of 16. Remember to follow safety practices and instructions provided in the manufacturer ...
In Stock

Questions and Answers

We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.

1 question answered by our experts.
  • 1
Sort by:
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.
Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Scott
January 24, 2023
When we turn on the range to pre-heat or cook, the lower burner turns on but it will burn for a few seconds, go out for 1-3 seconds, then turn back on making popping noise (not metallic noise, but gas igniting) repeatedly. Gotten worse over time, used to do it more intermittently
For model number MGRH752BDW
Fix.com logo
Hello Scott, thank you for reaching out. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix the issue: Temperature Sensor, part number FIX2003225, Oven Igniter, part number FIX2085070, Pressure Regulator, part number FIX11744135, and Spark Module, part number FIX2086288. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order, anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope that helps.

1 person found this helpful.

Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Related Parts:

Common Problems and Symptoms for MGRH752BDW

Viewing 10 of 10
Gas igniter glows, but will not light
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Will Not Start
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Oven not heating evenly
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Element will not heat
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Gas smell
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Oven is too hot
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Door won’t close
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Touchpad does not respond
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Little to no heat when broiling
Fixed by these parts
Fixing Fixing
How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Customer:
James from Berwick, ME
Parts Used:
74007498
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
243 of 276 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
george from birmingham, AL
Parts Used:
12001655
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
170 of 182 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Customer:
Matthew from Brookfield, MA
Parts Used:
WP3412D024-26
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
166 of 182 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!