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JDR8895AAS
JDR8895AAS Whirlpool Range
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$32.52
This is a genuine OEM replacement burner knob for your range. The knobs are used to turn the burner elements on and off, and to adjust the temperature of the burner. If a knob has become broken or str...
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$34.75
This is a factory-certified oven sensor kit with two harness adapters. Its purpose is to sense the temperature inside the oven. Replacing this part can fix an oven that is not reaching the proper temp...
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$6.54
This is a genuine OEM Torx screw that measures 7-18 and 3/4-inch. The screw is sold individually and can be used in a variety of appliances. The star shaped head allows the screw to have more torque a...
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$7.95
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
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$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for JDR8895AAS
Viewing 11 of 11Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by these parts
How to fix it
Element will not heat
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How to fix it
Will Not Start
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How to fix it
Oven is too hot
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How to fix it
Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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How to fix it
Touchpad does not respond
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Will not program
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Door won’t close
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How to fix it
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- David from Westford, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening,
... Read more
reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
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- Customer:
- charles from marstons mills, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
F1-1 code
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Fa
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ilure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
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- Customer:
- Lou from Fort Pierce, FL
- Parts Used:
- 12002792
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Right front ignitor switch not operating, possibly got wet when being cleaned.
The truth....This procedure will take 40 minutes total for the average "mechanic".
You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and two open end wrenches, 1/2" and 5/8"
AFTER unplugging the power cord AND turning
OFF the gas feed:
1-Remove seven phillips head screws from largest rear panel, and remove pa ... Read more nel.
2-Disconnect the gas feedline from the manifold with 5/8" open end wrench.
3-Unplug switch "set" ( 2 connectors, one inline and one spade)
4-Open top oven door and remove two hexhead/phillips screws from underside of stovetop, located on far right and far left forward corners.
5-Pull stovetop forward to unlatch from rear holddown clips on frame.
6-Lift stovetop up enough to disconnect five gas burner supply lines from control valves with 1/2" open end wrench.
7-Remove two phillips head manifold attaching screws from topside of control valves (visible after pulling off control valve knobs)...manifold is now free, remove from stove.
8-"Pop off" switches from control valves, and snap new set into place.
9-Install drip shield disks on control valve shafts.
10-Reverse procedure to reassemble stove.
NOTES:
1-Remember to install drip shield disks on control valve shafts before reattaching manifold to stovetop.
2-Check all visible screws for tightness now that the covers are removed, ....you WILL find loose screws...Avoid overtightening/stripping screw holes.
You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and two open end wrenches, 1/2" and 5/8"
AFTER unplugging the power cord AND turning
OFF the gas feed:
1-Remove seven phillips head screws from largest rear panel, and remove pa ... Read more nel.
2-Disconnect the gas feedline from the manifold with 5/8" open end wrench.
3-Unplug switch "set" ( 2 connectors, one inline and one spade)
4-Open top oven door and remove two hexhead/phillips screws from underside of stovetop, located on far right and far left forward corners.
5-Pull stovetop forward to unlatch from rear holddown clips on frame.
6-Lift stovetop up enough to disconnect five gas burner supply lines from control valves with 1/2" open end wrench.
7-Remove two phillips head manifold attaching screws from topside of control valves (visible after pulling off control valve knobs)...manifold is now free, remove from stove.
8-"Pop off" switches from control valves, and snap new set into place.
9-Install drip shield disks on control valve shafts.
10-Reverse procedure to reassemble stove.
NOTES:
1-Remember to install drip shield disks on control valve shafts before reattaching manifold to stovetop.
2-Check all visible screws for tightness now that the covers are removed, ....you WILL find loose screws...Avoid overtightening/stripping screw holes.
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Thank you for voting!